SV Orion - Annapolis, MD
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January 3rd Week - Biding Our Time

1/31/2007

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Riviera Beach Marina
We're starting to take root here in our slip at Riviera Beach Municipal Marina. The weather, while very pleasant, hasn't cooperated with the southerly winds needed to cross to the Bahamas. Two weeks after missing our original planned crossing to the Bahamas, we continue to see mostly cold fronts and their associated north winds and high waves. Since this is our first time crossing the Gulf Stream, we're perfectly happy to play it safe and wait for the more ideal conditions to cross.   

Go ahead. Call us wimps. We don't care.
  

In the meantime, we've managed to take care of a few boat items that have needed attention.  

Red Eye

With varying degrees of intensity, Cathy has been struggling with an eye irritation for months, whose cause was hard to determine. We speculated that it might be related to the drying effects of the wind and cold while underway, which made us wonder if we needed to do something to install a canvas windshield on the boat. However, it became clear that it was much more specific to the boat itself, when the condition cleared up over the 2 weeks away at Christmas and then started up again shortly after her return in January, even though we hadn't left the dock. Her doctor also had related it more to allergies, which caused us to look for possible causes on the boat. 

We suspected mold or mildew, although Orion had no mildew smell. During the months of cold weather traveling down the ICW, the interaction between the warm air in the boat and cold air outside caused a lot of condensation that gradually became a breeding ground for mildew. Because there was no dramatic mildew smell (and because cleaning is not Cathy's number one favorite activity), we didn't recognize (or maybe ignored) the signs of the growing mold and mildew problem. We now knew this was something we had to address. We decided to start with a good cleaning of the aft cabin, where we sleep. We washed every surface in the cabin, including the undersides of all the panels and inside every compartment, with a bleach solution. This seemed to help some, but it wasn't completely solving the problem. Cathy began working her way with the same cleaning approach through the rest of the boat, but the redness and irritation was becoming chronic and painful. It was being amplified by the many hours  spent inside the boat at the marina, closed up tight to hold in the air conditioning.   

Without some solution, our cruising days were going to have to end sooner rather than later.  

About this time, we saw an ad for a mold treatment service, Certified Mold Treatment, which claimed to address mold and mildew on boats, as well as houses, offices, etc. Dave did some research on the internet and talked to our neighbors in the marina, discovering that this was an ozone treatment, and that it seemed to be very effective. We talked to Brad from the local office, and arranged an appointment to have him treat our boat the next day. In preparation, we still cleaned the rest of the boat with the bleach solution, opened up every cabinet, and turned up all of the cushions.  It took only about 2 hours for the treatment, which Brad pumped in from a portable unit on the dock. We then waited a half hour for the ozone to dissipate (it turns back into oxygen), and waited to see what effect it would have.  

Cathy noticed an immediate improvement. The burning in her eyes subsided dramatically.  

Until she went to bed.  

In less than an hour, her eyes started burning again, indicating the ozone had not penetrated into the depths of the foam pillow. Although we had washed the pillow with bleach earlier that week, that and the ozone treatment had failed to penetrate the foam in the pillow sufficiently. She tossed the pillow on the floor and the burning subsided. The next day, we promptly replaced all of the pillows, which had the desired effect. We will likely be replacing our pillows with some regularity from now on.   

Cathy's still not symptom-free, but each day seems to improve the situation. It took several days over Christmas for her eyes to return to normal, so the hope is that this will be the case in the next few days.   

Riviera Beach
Whenever anyone asks where we’re waiting for our weather window to go to the Bahamas, we tell them we’re in “Palm Beach”, since it is the most recognizable city near our current location. It also conjures images of luxury condominiums, resort amenities, palm trees, ocean breezes, etc. This helps continue the myth that cruising is all about luxury and relaxation. We have visited West Palm Beach, which has a beautiful city center, called "City Place", with pleasant stores, walkways, outdoor cafes and a free trolley that circles the area.  

However, our precise location is in the town of Riviera Beach, docked at their municipal marina. Although only a few miles from the high class West Palm Beach downtown, Riviera Beach is worlds away in other ways. While the marina is a welcoming community of mostly live-aboard boaters (and very affordable), the streets just outside the marina are among the most economically depressed in the area. We don't hesitate to walk these streets during the day to do shopping nearby, but we've always heeded the warnings of our neighbors to "be inside the gate before dark". (The marina has locked gates on every pier. You even have to use the key to get out.)  

The marina itself seems to be the gathering place for the community to have access to the water. There is a launch facility for the many boats in the "hotel" stacked storage, a pleasant open air restaurant by the water, several charter companies for dive trips, jet skis, fishing charters, etc. There is live music every day at the restaurant, which makes for pleasant afternoons and evenings.

Our neighbors are very friendly and helpful. We've been offered free ice from our neighbor's ice machine, instruction in tying a Turk's Head knot (for the steering wheel centerline), recommendations on restaurants and shopping and more. The residents look out for each other, since most have been neighbors for years and helped each other weather the hurricanes of 2004. They readily included us in their circle as well.
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Safety
Since we had entered the new year, it was time to get a new safety inspection sticker. We got one of these just before leaving Solomons in June of last year. It was a good way to verify our preparations, as well as minimizing the chance that we might be boarded by the Coast Guard. We were visited by another member of the Power Squadron, this time from the Palm Beach area, who checked out Orion's safety gear and certified her for 2007.

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Dave also spent some more time on eBay shopping for an EPIRB. (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) The cost of the smaller Personal Locator Beacons was coming down to the point that it made sense to get one. He decided to purchase the ACR PLB-200 model, which allows input of GPS coordinates and will send a signal on 406Mhz as well as 121 Mhz. The GPS coordinates give your exact location within minutes. The continuous radio signal on 406 Mhz is used to triangulate a position from hundreds of miles away. The 121Mhz signal is used when vessels are nearby to zero in on your exact position. The unit has to be registered with NOAA along with information about the boat and emergency contacts, which we did. It is small enough to be mounted on a PFD as well. So, whomever is most likely to go over will get to wear it. It looks good on Dave, don't you think?

We hope we never have to use it.

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So, what about the Bahamas?
We haven't forgotten about the Bahamas. We've studied the guidebooks and blogs of friends who are ahead of us to map out a possible trip through the Abacos. We will probably work our way around from West End to Marsh Harbor on the east side of Great Abaco. We're thinking we will spend up to 2 months in the Abacos, heading back in mid- to late March.  

The delay in our departure allowed our mail, including our customs sticker to catch up with us, so it is now mounted in the cockpit. This allows us to clear US customs when we return with just a phone call. However, we would still need to "present ourselves" in person to Immigration upon our return within 24 hours. We discovered that there is a way to handle this with a phone call as well, using a new "Local Boater Option" program that is being piloted in Florida.  We apply for a Boater Registration number, which we provide via a phone call on our return to the US.  The process normally requires that we make an appointment with Customs to complete the application.  However, we took a walk over to the Customs office early on Monday morning and they processed our application on the spot.  So we now have our Boater registration number. Cool!  

Unfortunately, time spent in the marina means access to stores and shopping, so we keep finding things we "need", which is becoming increasingly difficult to stow in our stuffed boat. It will be a good thing (for our budget) to get off the dock and underway again.

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January 2nd Week - Shifting Gears

1/24/2007

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Shifting Gears
Even the best-laid plans are subject to change when you're cruising. Usually it's the weather that keeps you holed up for longer than you'd like, but tbe next most likely culprit is the boat itself. This came true with a vengeance this past Sunday, as we began to position ourselves for the crossing to Bahamas.   

Final (?) Preparations  
We left Nettles Island on Wednesday, January 10th, in 20 knot winds. Another exciting departure. We moved to an anchorage in the north end of Lake Worth at Palm Beach Gardens, Florida, where we would wait for the right weather to cross to the Bahamas. Before departing, we topped off our water tanks and filled all of our spare water jugs, which we then mounted on deck.


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Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse
Cathy had some challenges getting a prescription filled that would last for the time away in the Bahamas. But calls to the insurance agency and the doctor to get the right form filled out enabled her to fill the prescription for the full time.   

Dave had applied for our customs sticker the first week of January, but it didn't arrive in time to have it sent to us before we left. We asked our daughter to fax it to us for re-entry to the Bahamas.  

We continued to buy more provisions. The final opportunity to get fresh meat before leaving also gave us the chance to pick up more of those "essentials" (like diet cola), that we couldn't live without. We continued to find creative places to store it all, and Cathy kept track of what and where it all had been stored. We hung an extra hammock in the Main Saloon and began taking over lockers and shelves originally dedicated to other purposes.  

We would make one last stop just before crossing to top off our diesel and fill all of our diesel and gas cans, which were also mounted on deck. We topped off the water again as well. This gave us 25 extra gallons of water, 15 extra gallons of diesel and 15 extra gallons of gas. Now we looked like cruisers.    

Weather Forecasting  
To cross to the Bahamas, the ideal wind and wave conditions can make the difference between an uneventful crossing and a miserable one. Winds with any northerly component will oppose the north-flowing Gulf Stream current and create high waves. Winds from the south are better because they calm down the Gulf Stream. This time of year, the winds tend to be higher speeds and from the north. So, winds from the south are less frequent and quickly "clock around" to the North. The trick is to find a big enough window with winds from the south, which ensures the Gulf Stream will "lay down" and the trip will be more pleasant.  

To find our window, we had to collect whatever weather information we could. We, of course, used the marine weather forecast from NOAA. Also, Dave downloaded the GRIB files from the National Weather Service which gave 24, 48 and 96-hour forecasts for the Atlantic wind, waves and highs and lows. It includes forecasted wind speed and direction, wave height and frequency, and the movement of the highs, lows and the fronts. By studying these forecasts, we could identify the likelihood of favorable crossing conditions.  

It looked like a window was opening up on Monday, January 15th, Martin Luther King Day. It might last as long as Tuesday, but would close by Tuesday night. Having finished our provisioning, we pulled anchor and headed a few miles south to the Lake Worth inlet to be better positioned for our crossing on Monday.   

Ready to go, but . . .  
However, this wasn't meant to be our time to go.  

As we left the anchorage, we took advantage of the time to complete the "sea trial" step of our autopilot compass calibration, which involves making 2 large slow circles. As Dave pulled out of the circles, he noticed that the engine did not want to engage. Cathy had similar problems as we approached the fuel dock against a strong current, for our final re-fueling stop. We had occasionally had problems over the last year (more?) when we were starting from neutral against a strong current, which frequently was followed by a loud thumping noise as the engine finally engaged. However, this was worse than it had ever been. At the fuel dock, Fred from Marianna boarded to help Dave analyze the problem.  

It began to point clearly to a transmission problem.  

We moved on to the new anchorage, but recognized that we couldn't leave for the Bahamas with a bad transmission. After calling many marinas in the area, we identified a local engine repair shop that was recommended by several of them. We called them, even though it was Sunday, in the vain hope we might talk to someone about the problem. Miraculously, they called back and we arranged for a mechanic to meet us at the closest marina first thing the next morning. Marianna graciously agreed to delay their crossing to see what we would find out the next day.  

After another exciting docking against the current with no power, Cathy pulled the boat into the Riviera Beach marina fuel dock. The mechanic boarded soon after and confirmed we needed a new transmission. We were going to have to stay and wait for one to be sent from the supplier. We decided to have Boat US tow us into the slip, since we had had enough high adventure dockings in the last 2 days.   Dave spent more time negotiating the price of the transmission, talking to contacts in Annapolis and Fred's contacts in New Hampshire to save several hundred dollars off the original estimate.   

We sadly informed Marianna that we would not be joining them on their crossing.  

The Good News  
Needless to say, we weren't the only ones trying to take advantage of the weather window to cross to the Bahamas. Sunday night, the anchorage by the inlet was packed with boats anticipating the good weather.  

When we woke on Monday morning, we were in a ghost town. Only a few boats stayed behind in the hopes that Tuesday would be the better day. It wasn't long before we heard radio conversations of those who had left who were facing 20 knot winds from the east and seas of 3 to 6 feet. Those who had stayed behind seemed to have made the better choice.
  

For Marianna's sake, we were glad that we had held them back. Tuesday's crossing conditions turned out to be much better for them and the few other boats that had waited. They left at 4am and were safely in West End on Grand Bahama Island in the afternoon, well before dark. On Monday afternoon, we dinghied over to see them at anchor, taking a bag of ice. "Did anyone order some ice?" We would miss our cut-throat games of Milles Bornes and Sequence, but we knew we would see each other again sometime.  

We were pleased to see White Bird and Puddle Jumper, 2 boats from Charleston, again at Lake Worth. They dinghied over to see us one afternoon at anchor. They crossed to the Bahamas on Monday and were still there to greet Marianna when she arrived Tuesday.  

The Waiting Game
Since we would be waiting for the transmission for several days anyway, we took advantage of the time to have our mail sent to us and to order some zinc's for our engine from Annapolis.   To our surprise, the mechanic appeared on Wednesday afternoon with our new transmission, which was installed with no problems. The engine now appears to reliably have power upon shifting into gear.

But we still need to wait, not just for the anticipated mail deliveries, but also for the new weather window. As predicted, Tuesday's good weather disappeared on schedule and the winds clocked back to the north with the latest cold front. We haven't identified when the next window will open again, so we will likely be in the area for another week.  

We will take care of other projects on the boat and get ready for the next crossing once the engine is repaired. We'll keep the radio on to find others who will be crossing at the same time. 
 
And so, we wait. . .   But at least we're in shorts and T-shirts. 

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January 1st Week - Going to Disney World

1/14/2007

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When we returned to the boat, the work to be done to prepare to leave was overwhelming. Dave wanted to do a variety of engine maintenance tasks, including installing a new starter and starting battery. Cathy was working on the list for general provisioning, assuming we committed ourselves to going to the Bahamas for several months. This meant planning, buying and then storing 3 months worth of food, toiletries, paper supplies – everything that is consumed on a boat. It was overwhelming. So, with all this work to be done, we started the new year with the most logical first step.  

We went to Disney World.

Disney World  
Pat and Fred had mentioned that they had never visited Disney World, but always wanted to. With our extra 3 days on the rental car, and with many stores closed on New Year’s Day, we decided to take advantage of the opportunity this presented and treat ourselves to Disney World. The weather was pleasant, cool and cloudy, but never producing more than a few sprinkles. The crowds were light by Disney standards, allowing us to see all the rides and sites that we wanted to without exhausting waits in lines. We stayed for the parade and fireworks at the end of the day and then followed the crowds out to our car and home. We didn’t get back until 2am, but we agreed it was worth it. 

On the way to the park, we stopped at Krispy Kreme to give Pat and Fred another first. They had never visited a Krispy Kreme where they were making hot donuts. We stopped at the one in Kissimmee before we got to Disney, pulling in just as a fresh batch was coming off the line. It took us very little time to down a dozen between us.   Mmm.. Mmm…

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Power Shopping  
Reality hit like a ton of bricks the next day, when we realized how tired we were and how much we had to get done in one day, since the rental car was due back early the next morning.   

We got a late start, but then headed up to Fort Pierce, where there was a consignment shop, Marine Connection Liquidators calling our names.   One of the big finds for us was a canvas window, that Pat thought she could turn into a temporary windshield for us to protect us on ocean crossings. A panel with 3 “glass” panes incorporated into it was in the bin for only $10. Once Pat worked her magic on it, we had a very permanent-looking “temporary” windshield.

After a trip to Sam’s Club, we stopped at Wal-mart to pick up the prescriptions for our emergency medical supplies, Dave and Fred shopped for a new battery for Orion, and Pat and Cathy did the serious grocery shopping for the 3 months coming.   

Unfortunately, it soon became clear that the car could not possibly hold the purchases from Sam’s Club, the consignment store, and the Wal-mart provisions. So, Dave and Fred lugged everything purchased so far back to the boat, with a plan to let Cathy and Pat finish shopping. The second load was as big as the first, filling the car to the brim again. We hauled everything to our boats, while Pat fixed dinner for all of us on Marianna, which we gratefully inhaled about 11:30pm after shoving our purchases into what open spaces we could find on Orion. Cathy was to discover several glaring omissions over the next few days that would require a 5 mile round trip bike ride to CVS to help fill the gap. The worry is what else is missing?  

Boat Projects:
With the car returned, we were confined to the boat and now had to face the many projects waiting there.  

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1. Power, More Power
Our engine was no longer reliably starting on the starter battery, which meant we were continuing to have problems with this system. Dave wanted to install a new starting battery and starter, but we continued to wonder about the root cause of the problems that keep recurring. 

After discussing this extensively with Fred, Dave became convinced that the boat’s original battery charger was overcharging the starting battery, causing them to repeatedly “burn” out over the past 2 years. This was evidenced by the readings from the battery monitor and the excessive bubbling in the starting battery. He installed the new battery so that it was disconnected from the charger to prevent this from being a factor in the future. It is common for boats to have their starting batteries charged exclusively by the engine, which should be sufficient without the battery charger.
  

Next, again with Fred’s help, Dave replaced the rebuilt starter (installed in May) with a new Hitachi starter.  

The combined changes caused the engine to start easily, as it hadn’t since the summer. The question is: how long will it last this time? It’s just one more chapter in the on-going saga about our electrical systems. While at Disney, Dave found one display he could relate to in this respect

2. Change, Change, Change
Based on our engine hours, it was time for an oil change and, more significantly, a Racor fuel filter change. Dave managed to recruit Fred to help with the fuel filter change, which was messy and filled the engine room with diesel fumes. While doing this, they also replaced the Yanmar fuel filter as well. However, they were able to create a Racor fuel filter assembly with our newly acquired bowl, which will make future filter changes much easier.  

3. Where does it go?
In between engine chores, Cathy was looking around for places to store the mountains of food and supplies purchased on Tuesday. This meant that all box packaging had to be stripped away, the interior bags labeled, the contents, location and expiration date recorded in the food inventory and the storage location found. We now have food everywhere. But for the most part, there isn’t any under foot, which causes us to wonder if we need to buy more . . .  

Where to now?  
We’ve been having some discussions about where we are headed next. We’ve read a bit about the Florida Keys, which are doable, although they can be shallow. We would have to take the “outside” route, which runs to the east between an outer reef and the islands. However, we discussed the possibility of crossing to the Bahamas with Pat and Fred, and came to realize that we could cross from Lake Worth (a day’s trip south of our location) to West End in the Bahamas during daylight. That discovery, plus the ability to cross in the company of another boat, made it appealing to head east to the Bahamas. We are now awaiting a weather window, where the winds are mostly south, to keep the Gulf Stream crossing calm.   No matter our destination, in the spirit of our friends at Disney, we will continue to work to making this “the happiest cruise on earth”. 

We still have a bit further to go however.
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