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 No more complaints about the cold from us. The weather has finally warmed up and we are enjoying the beautiful sunshine and mild temperatures as we begin our travels through the Bahamas.
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Bahamas or Bust

Well, we almost didn’t make it. We actually parted company with Pat and Fred as they turned east off Ft. Lauderdale and made their way toward the Bimini waypoint, sadly resigning ourselves to a trip south to Marathon for repairs. About 8 hours into our trip, our mostly dry rudder post had started spilling water in a steady stream. Not enough to worry about sinking the boat, but more than we would be able keep up with as the 20kt of wind from the north kicked up the Gulf Stream for the crossing. These weren’t the conditions we would have chosen without our water problems, but with them the rough seas would mean we would have to bail constantly, meaning the off-duty crew would get no sleep. Why had this happened all of sudden, when we had had so few problems up to now? By 2am, the bilge pump Dave had installed was no longer pumping the water out, meaning we were back to hand bailing. Not a pretty sight. So, we told Pat and Fred to go on, we weren’t crossing.

At that point, we had to decide where to go. We looked at the timing and decided to continue on through the next day and anchor off Rodriguez Key, the stopping point midway between Miami and Marathon in the Florida Keys. Since we didn’t want to run Hawk Channel (the eastern channel between the Keys and their ocean reef) at night, we killed the engine and poked along downwind on our headsail alone. There was enough residual Gulf Stream current even 3 miles from shore to make it slow going, but at this point we weren’t in any hurry. 

By sunrise off Miami, the winds were starting to calm down to the lower teens. Cathy turned on Chris Parker to get his forecast for the day ahead. Dave, now rested from several hours sleep was up and we tried to assess the situation. The rudder was dry. The waves seemed to be moderating with the winds. We could always turn around. We decided to go for it. Dave took the helm, while Cathy got some sleep, ready to respond if he needed her. By 11am, we were halfway across, and the rudder leak had been amazingly very manageable. We had furled in our headsail shortly after making the turn, with wind on too close a point of sail to get much benefit. The waves were about 4 feet on our beam, but spaced far enough a part to make the passage not too bad (after all, Cathy was able to sleep through the first part of it).   Having checked into the Waterway Net with our intention to still cross to Bimini, we figured Marianna now knew of our revised plans, but we couldn’t get good enough propagation to communicate with them directly and were barely able to hear the Fleet Captain on the net. We would just have to wait until we saw them.
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Bimini Entrance Channel
As Bimini came into view around 1:30pm, we started preparing for the trip into the channel. Our information said that the charts we had were outdated, since a new channel had been dredged a couple of years ago. We happened to hear Interlude on the radio right about then and asked them for any first-hand information about entering Bimini. (They were approaching the banks north of Bimini headed for Chub Cay.) They said the new channel was well-marked and had plenty of depth, but that Blessed Spirit had gone aground coming around to enter the northmost fairway at Bluewater Marina, where we planned to stay. We signed off with a little better feeling about going in cold. We tried Marianna on VHF, but got no answer. As we neared the channel, we first made out a red daymark, and later a green can further out. We tried in vain to spot more markers, but none were there. It turned out the green can was number 3, meaning at least a couple of marks were missing. We watched some other small motor boats enter and exit and decided on a path in. After rounding the can to port, we started heading for the red mark. Cathy tried to read its number but could only decide that it was a single digit, but not what number it was. Dave tried to read the water color as we made our way in. We were less than a foot up on a falling tide, so we didn’t want to run aground. A minute or so later, Dave said, “we should be aground”, and then we hit the bar. He tried backing off, but it wasn’t obvious how much progress we were making. Every so often a wave would pick us up and drop us onto the bar again. Bang! As a large sportfishing boat came by at top speed, we notified him that we were aground. Although he didn’t acknowledge us, we benefited from his large wake which gave us the final push off. We moved to starboard to follow in his wake and, finally were able to read the read daymark we had been heading for. It was number 8. So much for a well-marked channel. 

We had no further problems and were soon tied up in our slip next to Marianna. Dave checked in with Customs and Immigration a short walk down the street. We soon saw Fred, Pat and Julie and Marianna, whom we had thought we would not see again for quite a while. As it turned out their crossing had been pretty rough, calming only later in the trip as they drew closer to Bimini for a noon arrival. It appeared we had made the right decision to delay our crossing. It had been a bit of roller-coaster ride emotionally for the past 36 hours, but we had made another successful crossing and were in the Bahamas for another winter’s stay – a destination that had seemed to slip out of our grasp just 12 hours earlier.

Now, we just had to figure out how to manage that leaking rudder. Upon consideration, we have a suspicion that the difference between this trip and the others since leaving Deltaville was the weight of several jugs of fuel on the stern of the boat, in addition to the additional weight of provisions. Based on this observation, we have decided to carry less fuel and water jugs than in the past, and are working to remove any other weight that will push Orion’s stern into the water. Dave has also replaced the bilge pump by the rudder with one with intakes that are closer to the hull, so it will hopefully a) work and b) pump more of the water that does accumulate. We still hope the rudder will stay dry until we can find the permanent solution. 

Steering True

It has been a few months since we’ve given an update about our new Garmin and the start-up issues we were having. The most significant one was the unit’s use of our Raymarine autopilot compass to determine heading information. After trying in vain to get the unit to ignore the faulty compass, Dave instead turned his attention to getting the compass itself fixed. However, instead of calling the generic Raymarine technical support, he instead went straight to a contact that we had met at the Annapolis Boat Show 2 years ago, from Raymarine Product Support. After explaining the problem, our contact immediately suggested Dave try a new compass (the solution Dave had tried to get Raymarine Tech Support to suggest 3 years ago). He sent Dave a replacement compass free of charge, which we installed while in Daytona. Unfortunately, we would not be able to test it until we could get underway and perform a sea trial calibration (which requires you to drive slowly in 2 large circle for not less than 3 minutes and not more than 2 knots. This can be tricky to do on the narrow waterways in Florida). Since the compass was installed facing astern, the display was now even more confusing until we performed the sea trial, because it kept orienting the display backward, allowing us to see where we’ve been. It was very disconcerting. 

It was with great relief that early on in our trip south from Daytona, we found an opportunity to calibrate the compass. While stuck waiting for the Coronado Beach Bridge south of Daytona, we decided we had (just) enough room and time to do the calibration maneuver. With the calibration done, the boat icon on the chartplotter began facing (incredibly) the way we were going. Sometimes it’s the small things you appreciate. We have now traveled over 40 hours with the new compass, and it has worked flawlessly. Another benefit is that the autopilot now starts tracking to our route much more easily, without any wild swings while it tries to compensate for the faulty compass reading. Thanks Raymarine. You done good.
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We are staying on North Bimini, the smaller, but more populous of the 2 Bimini islands. Its unobstructed view of the Florida Straits have fueled the economy in a number of ways for generations: from the early days of wreckers, to trading with the passing ships to the current tourist economy, which has spawned a huge development at the north end of the island called Bimini Bay.   The contrast between Bimini Bay and the rest of Bimini couldn’t be greater. The small towns of Alicetown, Bailey, and Porgy Bay are very typical Bahamian towns, with residences, small shops, schools and government or utility buildings lining the main road running the length of the island. However, once one passes through the entrance at Bimini Bay, one is transported to an idyllic resort community with immaculate landscaping, wide boulevards, spacious homes and condominiums as far as the eye can see. We were taken on an extensive tour by one of the salesmen, who took us north of the existing homes to show an amazing process of constructing more island, with earth moving equipment running back and forth on an expanse of sand that could rival most interstates. 
On the other end of the island, we were treated to a tour of a 18-year project called the Dolphin House, constructed almost entirely of found or donated objects and concrete. Its proud owner and builder considers it still a work in progress, but proudly shares its sturdy construction and carefully executed decorations with visitors for a modest fee. It has survived several hurricanes and will no doubt be here through many more.
Bimini also contains the answer to some of “life’s persistent questions”, such as the location of the Fountain of Youth (on South Bimini) and the lost city of Atlantis, which apparently is being explored off the shores of Bimini Bay. When not wondering the island, we were doing boat projects (such as making glass-bottom buckets), socializing with and helping out other cruisers, enjoying the abundant rock lobster tails or cracked conch, and getting ready for our next run, which will be another overnight -- this time to the Exumas.
Moving On 

So, we are nearly ready to try again. After a failed attempt last Friday, where the strong south winds and a similarly strong current foiled our collective attempt to depart, we are looking for calmer conditions which appear to be arriving on Wednesday (Jan. 27). Hopefully, the passage will be as good as (or better than) forecast, which mostly contains wind on the nose, albeit lighter than most of the past week. And let’s hope that rudder stays (mostly) dry.
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Those of you in latitudes 30 degrees and above will find our whining about cold weather amusing, but the past 2 weeks brought record-setting cold to Florida (along with the rest of the nation) which we experienced first-hand. Now that temperatures have returned to more normal ranges, we hope we don’t get a chance to repeat the frosty weather experience any time soon.  


Spacing Out
As the cold weather moved into Florida on the first, we headed out for our annual trip to Disney World, but instead took a left and ended up at the Kennedy Space Center, which we had last visited many years ago. Although there was no shuttle on the launchpad, there was still plenty to see and do. One highlight was the visit to the Mission Control center for the Apollo program, where they recreated the launch of the Apollo 8 mission. Upon completion of the program, we were ushered out into the area where a Saturn rocket was laid on its side from one end of the hall to the other. To say it was huge is a gross understatement.  
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An alligator swims up close at the Visitor Center
The Cape Canaveral National Seashore surrounds the space center, and we were told about many efforts made to help preserve the wildlife that lives there.  One dramatic example swam up to us at the visitor center.

Despite the stormy weather, we had a great time, stayed all day and could easily have spent more time. 
Sun Worship
Over the holidays, Dave ordered 2 hard solar panels to add to the flexible ones we already had. With the additional power, he needed to upgrade to a new controller that would better manage the power generated and ensure that the batteries were not overcharged. Once back on the boat, he just needed to run the wires for the panels and install the new controller. After a couple of trips to the local marine supply store, he had all the supplies he needed and started connecting the new and existing panels to the new controller. With the panels and controller in place, he was able to see a noticeable increase in power from the new panels. We now have one mounted on the stern so we’ll be able to take more advantage of different sun angles. 

Ice, Ice Everywhere

Several years ago, when we first started cruising with Marianna, Merlin and Milano Myst, there was a running joke about having an ice machine on board for cold drinks. Although, with all the cold of late, it was hard to believe that the time would come that we would want it, we had purchased an ice machine over the summer and needed to upgrade some wiring to handle it. Dave kept it hidden until just the right time during our trip south, to provide ice for drinks while we stayed at R. E. Mayo. It had the desired effect. Fred couldn’t get over the fact that Dave had kept it a secret for so much of the trip south. 

We had originally wired a little 500W inverter to an AC outlet by the nav station to power our blender. This would not be enough for the ice machine. So, we purchased a new 1200W inverter and installed it in the engine room, closer to the batteries to avoid power loss. With a remote switch, it is pretty easy to turn on, without crawling into the engine room. It is wired to the same AC outlet. So, when the weather warms up, we will be able to make ice and enjoy a cold drink even while at anchor.
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Lines frozen from the cold
Stocking Up, Cleaning Up, Moving Out

We spent much of the time in Daytona on provisioning: shopping for food and supplies, stowing what we bought and removing anything that we could that was no longer necessary. When we were done, Orion was full of stores, food, and water, making her ride lower in the water than we have ever seen her. While Cathy tried to keep her clean on the inside staying one step ahead of the condensation from all the cold weather, Dave worked on the outside, having a diver come and clean the bottom and replace the zinc. We were pleased that the report was that the bottom was very clean and the prop especially so. The PropSpeed seemed to be working well.

Cathy found a warmer day to finish stripping and applying Cetol to the swim ladder steps, a project she had begun but was unable to complete before leaving Deltaville. Unfortunately, the weather was not nearly as warm the day before leaving Daytona, so she did her best to make as quick work as possible of topping off the water tanks and cleaning the strataglass in the enclosure. She didn’t consider the effect of having all that water running across the deck onto the lines. When Dave began casting off the next morning, he found the lines that had been neatly coiled on deck, were now frozen in that shape. It wasn’t until late morning that the lines thawed enough to unwind. 

The work to clean the enclosure seemed to pay off on the day of our departure, when the glass was clean and clear. However, it wasn’t good enough to prevent the glass from completely frosting over the next morning as we prepared to leave Cocoa Beach. Cathy had to take care to clean the glass without scratching it and without her hands going numb from the cold. This isn’t supposed to happen in Florida. 

Daytona to Vero Beach

We took 2 days to make the run from Daytona Beach to Vero Beach, clearing the 2 bridges near Titusville just before their 3:30pm restrictions on the first day to make Cocoa not long before sunset. We took time to top off Orion’s fuel to fill the tank for the first time in a month. We topped her off again in Vero once we arrived before taking a mooring. Although our original plan had been to depart after just one night in Vero, Chris Parker reported that the cold weather in Florida was kicking up the windspeeds in the Gulf Stream by 10 or more knots, making for a rough crossing at night, which was our plan. With this new information, we reluctantly decided to wait for the next window, which would keep us in Vero for another week.

We made use of the time to visit with friends who were already in Vero Beach.   Libby and Dick from Tarwathie, who had been our neighbors for a week on the hard in Deltaville, invited us over for dinner one night. Later, we enjoyed an evening with Euphoria, Cattiva and Marianna on Orion. Each night of our stay was gradually getting warmer, until finally the shorts and T-shirts came back out again. 

Another week passing meant more grocery shopping, laundry and, with the warmer weather, time spent drying out the boat and cleaning up the mildew from all the condensation. Finally, we are ready to go – again. Our plan is to head south out the Fort Pierce inlet, down the Florida coast to some point south of Fort Lauderdale, where we’ll cross to Bimini, arriving there in the morning of the next day. If all goes as planned that will be Tuesday, Jan. 19th. 

So, the next update should find us in the Bahamas. 
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